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on this particular style of vice which, unfortunately we don’t use anymore The front jaw and the back jaw or stationary jaw and moveable jaw, both move up and down. That is how it clamps your workpiece firmly on the parallels. With this style of vice, it is extremely important that maintenance is done to this on a weekly basis it needs to be taken apart and cleaned and oiled if you’re going to be using the pulldown feature To use it as fixed all you need to do is tighten the 6 mm bolts, and that will prevent the jaws from pulling down and make them stationary Hopefully this helps Ray

@@shopandmath Thanks for the prompt reply. I understand - Thanks!

from chilli that’s awesome Thank you for letting me know where you’re from. I appreciate that it. It’s kind of cool and thank you for taking the time to comment with a nice comment. It is so much appreciated. Thank you Ray

sorry about the misleading title as hard as it is to believe I didn’t make the title it was generated through tube Buddy, which is a RUclips making program I guess I could make a video on friction welding Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

if you don’t have a diamond wheel, some people have been commenting about using a small diamond wheel on a Dremel now I personally have never thought of that, and I will be incorporating that in on one of my next videos just to see how it turns out Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

​@@shopandmathWhy didn't you use cutting oil or any kind of lube when you drilled that hole?? That and slow speed, you probably would have completed the hole with the first drill bit.

well, this would put a smile on my face. Thank you for that. And thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

thank you for the nice comment. Honestly, I think you’re the only one to do so. I was experimenting with automated voice, and everyone hates it, so I stopped, making automated voice videos I’m not very good at, and they seem to take a very long time So thank you very much for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

That’s a good explanation. Thank you for sharing. Most cobalt drills at 5%. I haven’t heard of a 10% one. Do you know the manufacturers name? There are many types of cobalt drill bits, but the most common are M42 cobalt drill bits (composed of 8% cobalt) and M35 cobalt drill bits (5% cobalt)

@@shopandmath You are so welcome and I hope you have good results. I've been retired for about 5 years so I cant recall the brands that make hss-cobalt 10% but I know they were American made. You got my curiosty up so I've kind of been looking around on the web with no luck, only 8% like you said. I will check my tooling later on to see if I have anything that will jog my memory. The 8% should work too with a little slower rpm and flood coolant. I could always tell a big difference between American hss-cobalt and imported, in all grades. I see MoMax makes a 10% but all I've found there are square bits, drill blanks, and part-off blades. Maybe try TRW Putnam or Cleveland Greenfield?

Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

This is tricky to answer. I kinda need to see it to understand what’s going wrong. There is only a certain amount of force that the power feed on the quill can produce. Usually, if it’s too much force, it will pop out of gear and not allow the gears to get damaged. Maybe instead of using the power feed, place the feed handle on the power feed, place it in neutral, and then hand feed through the power feed unit to find out if the tool cut smoothly, or you require more force to get the proper chip formation I know my statement might be a little difficult to understand. I hope that you can understand what I’m trying to explain. Ray

Thank you for the nice comment

There’s probably about 100 reasons why those pieces would be stiff Because I’m in an educational environment 99% of the time it’s from students hitting it with a hammer that’s crazy as that sounds when they’re hammering their work peace down they’re not watching where the hammer goes and it hits the stem sticking out If you can’t afford to have the machine down for a period of time, I would not take it apart if it’s still working some of these parts and we have replaced every part on these machines can’t be difficult to get I have a few other mill videos, or Andrew is taking things apart. We have a special station for stripping the head down where we take it off of the machine out of the shop and bring it up to our workshop repair shop, and the head can be stripped down at chest level, so you’re not standing on a ladder or anything like that, and it’s bolted to the side of a table And you have the perfect work for dismantling. Eventually, I will do a video on a full dismantle, but that won’t be for sometime. I hope this helped Ray

@@shopandmath thank you for the reply. It festered to the point I couldn’t take it anymore. I pulled the clutch and the trip arm. I pulled the gear out of the front and found it was packed with old hard grease. I cleaned out as much as I could and saturated it with spindle oil. Assembled everything and tested it. It works beautifully now but all the spindle oil is leaking out all over the table below lol. It was only temporary. But this machine has a grease zerk above it and I’m pretty sure it was not supposed to be greased, but oiled instead. So now I’m not sure what to run in it. But I’m going to pull it apart one more time and clean it out. Once I figure out what to put back in there. But thank you for your time and your reply. I hope you have a great day.

Buy used up. I’m not sure what you mean but I’m going to suggest that used up means that it needs to be redressed. The cutting forces and heat generated increased dramatically, and it does not cut carbide freely. Those are signs saying that you absolutely need to redress the wheel. Or used up could mean that there’s no life left in the wheel. These wheels are laminated to aluminum. There’s a certain thickness of glue before there’s only aluminum left, or if the unit becomes delaminated and chunks of diamond peel off. You know there’s no life left in the wheel when the wheel starts to delaminate when truing or dressing I hope that this made sense and hopefully I explained it well enough Ray

@@shopandmath just received a dressing stick in the mail, hope to try in soon

I have a drill doctor. I’m not sure if the wheel inside will sharpen carbide.

Hi James Thanks for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.

hi James, I would have to agree with you. I really should’ve put the date on. It would’ve made it a little bit more complete. Thanks for sharing Ray

yes, this was much more harder of material than what I wanted to do as a demonstration The plan was to use a hand drill and not a drill press The concept I was trying to explain, or show was minimum cost with tools that you have at home to drill hard material During the time that I had set aside to do this demo, our hardness test was broken so I needed a material that was easily identified as being extremely hard, and the only thing I could find was an endmill

it was a total of three dollars because I used three bits The idea or concept of this was to drill hardy material as cost-effectively as I possibly could using only machines that I have at home This concept might be a little hard to understand and it it would take a long paragraph to explain properly I have access to millions of dollars worth of machining equipment and my buddies keep telling me yeah you can do this but what happens when I’m at home and I break a bolt working under a car or something like that how do I get that out? There is bits available that you can buy made by manufactured by Dewalt and Milwaukee They are considerably more expensive I hope this answered your question Ray

Thank you

I was thinking about doing something a little bit different. I don’t even know if it would work but my idea would be to make a magnetic angle plate mostly to see if it would work. What do you think about that? Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

@@shopandmath do you mean an adjustable magnetic angle plate, or fixed angle? I can’t think how an adjustable plate is possible. Would love to see it, if it is possible.

A standard 90° angle plate that’s fixed to that angle

when we’re talking about angles through generally three angles that people are going to talk about a positive angle will be going towards the backside of the cutter. The neutral angle would be perpendicular or 90° to the cutting angle and a negative angle would be a angle that leans towards the cutting edge. It is a little difficult to describe. I hope this helps. Ray

thank you Matt for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

thank you for letting me know about the chapters I’ll have to look into it On my previous set or the first set that I made back in 95 it had the date on it Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment it is much appreciated Ray

whatever possible I do try to engrave my name on things

thank you for sharing And thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated.